Frederick’s is in pedestrianised Camden Passage, a cobbled street with antique stalls and continental-style cafés. But when you step into the rather plush eatery, you’re suddenly in a more sedate, enclosed world. It’s discreet, the service is smooth, there are white tablecloths and properly spaced tables. Frederick’s is family-run, a local institution of 50-odd years, … Continued
There’s an exuberant air at Granger & Co in Kings Cross. They don’t take reservations, so people queue expectantly amid the buzz of the square, which makes the wait easier. The shape of the place is striking. Loosely based on an Italian railway station bar, it is beautifully set up with long glass walls, outer … Continued
Harry’s Bar in Venice became a national monument in 2001. What’s the secret? Harry himself has a simple recipe that keeps everyone, from the famous to the fabulous, coming back. There isn’t even a sign on the door. Unknowingly, I used to jog straight past it on my morning run from the Baglioni Hotel Luna … Continued
Worship at the Grill Jamie Oliver’s parents choose the Barbecoa for the view and their famous son’s food. It even charms a hardened pescatarian. Isn’t it a bit meaty for you?’ was the universal cry when I said I was going to Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa, an American-style charcoal grill — with me being a longtime … Continued
It’s a winning combination – the mamma, Maria, in the kitchen, and handsome son, Antonello, in the restaurant, in his black velvet jacket with designer beard, filling the room with warmth and charm. One of the best sommeliers I’ve come across, he chose a Vereto Rosso 2006 to go with our sumptuous meal. I had … Continued
Ember Yard isn’t a yard or even an outside space. But the name evokes a dusty, faraway location with exotic overtones. It’s a secret gem in Soho, immediately atmospheric, drawing you into its dimly lit, romantic ambience. I went with a painter who looks at things more carefully. She liked the earthy, rustic décor, low … Continued
After walking the winding streets of Puglia’s exquisite Baroque town, Lecce, there’s only one restaurant to go to for authentic Leccese food. The casual, bustly Alle due Corti is so faithful to the cooking of the Salento, south eastern part of Puglia, that even the menu is in dialect. In fact Rosalba de Carlo, who … Continued
Lord Jim’s is the place to go for a long, relaxing, fishy lunch or dinner on the river in Bangkok. It’s like being under the sea as you walk past fish tanks into the oval, glass room with it’s blue hue. The swirling lines on the carpet and ceiling glimmer like the ripples of waves. … Continued
